June 2010 : Kruger National Park, South Africa

Words can simply not express the extent of what we have witnessed over the past six weeks here on the fabulous N’wanetsi Concession. We have met up with old friends like the Xirombe Pride and been introduced to new family member of both the Xirombe and Mountain Prides. The two leopard cubs are doing wonderfully and living like princes in the foothills of the Lebombo Mountain range. It is not uncommon to go on drive and count well over five hundred zebra, a sight to remember. Elephants stream out of the mountains in the early morning on their way to waterholes. Black Rhino are moving closer to the lodge than ever before, in search of water in the south. This month has been good and prosperous, and this is only the beginning of the spectacle that is winter in the heart of the Kruger National Park……sit back and enjoy!

WELCOME TO THE FAMILY…
After waiting for almost three months we have finally seen the new leopard cubs that were born on the Concession. Both lion and leopard revealed their little cubs within a day of each other, and we were beyond thrilled. We first found the two little leopard cubs. The mother killed an impala in the heart of her territory, fed on it for a day and upon our return to the site of the kill the next afternoon we found the most amazing surprise waiting for us. She had brought her two little ones to their first kill. This is typical for leopard, as soon as the cubs are old enough to start walking with her she will lead them to kills. Upon seeing the vehicle approaching they scrambled down the tall tree and ran straight to the protective surrounds of the sticky thorn thickets. We did not have to wait too long before two tiny little heads peered through the thick bush, eyes wide open and as curious as can be. This was their first real encounter with game viewers. Since their mother was relaxed with the vehicles they soon settled down at the base of the tree. It was an unforgettable first encounter.   

The little lion cubs were discovered in very much the same way. They were also brought out of hiding to their first kill, and in that way introduced to us. They were very relaxed with the vehicle and every movement from guide or guest would draw their attention. They were so playful and curious and made for an incredible first sighting. They are still very small and were much more interested in playing than eating the zebra kill their mother and aunts provided. They soon got the hang of it and “attacked” the zebra as if they had killed it. It was a sight to remember. The mother and cubs are spending a lot of time south of the lodge in the rocky areas, and we are hoping to see them more often as the tiny ones become more and more mobile.

 

Pictured right, the cubs stay close to their mothers at all times when moving. At this small age they are so vulnerable to predators including those of their own kind. Lion cubs enjoy the added protection of the pride. Once they are old enough to keep up, usually any time from three months of age they will stay with the pride full time. Lionesses also try and synchronize births. This is a great way for the cubs to grow up together, and females will also suckle one another’s cubs. Leopard cubs need to be very well hidden and protected. They rely on their secretive nature and phenomenal camouflage to avoid detection. When the female is not with them she will leave them in a well protected area like the rocky cliffs of the Lebombo Mountains. They also have the ability to climb trees from a young age and can avoid most predators in that way. We trust that they will be stay safe and provide us with many entertaining hours spent with them.

TWO BRAND NEW CUBS IN ADDITION TO THE ABOVR… (Article by James Suter)
While working in the Northern parts of the concession, a guide calls in over the radio that he has located two lioness‘s, both with swollen mammary glands.  The lions separated and the guide decided to stick with one of the individuals. We responded to the area and managed to locate the other lioness.  She was walking with purpose and the excitement levels started to build amongst us, we followed her for about thirty minutes through a drainage line and into a thicket.  Switching off the vehicle, all in silence we listened and to our amazement heard a small yelp, a sound that could only be produced by a lion cub.
We approached cautiously into the thicket and finally got visual of two tiny cubs, no more than three weeks old.  What was so astonishing to me was how relaxed the female was with the presence of the vehicle, showing no sign of aggression.  The cubs grew inquisitive with our vehicle and eventually approached within a meter, with mom observing from behind. Words cannot describe the emotions we were all experiencing.

 

We discussed how vital it is for the cubs to have a safe haven and that during the hiding period they are at great risk. But these cubs were very well hidden. The other guide also managed to get a visual of the second lioness’s cubs and it was interesting to note that their chosen venues were relatively close to one another. The two lioness‘s are mountain pride, meeting up to hunt as a pair and hiding their offspring in different locations to improve their chances of survival. There are now four confirmed females with young cubs and it seems the future is looking good for this generation of lions in the Singita Lebombo concession.

FELINE ACROBATICS…

A leopard’s ability to climb trees and maneuver around in it is often overlooked. Have a look at this series of photographs. Look at how easily that sleek-lined body of hers sails up the trunk of that tall tree. She moves like liquid as she effortlessly powers her way to the top. Even once she is up on top she moves up and down and from branch to branch as if gravity had no hold on her hundred pound body. One is captivated by her as she carefully places her paws on branches barely wide enough for large birds to perch on. She is perfectly balanced as she moves from the higher branch to the lower.
Think also of the power required to take a hundred pound impala up that tree. She can use only her mouth to hold on to it. This has massive benefits though and ensures that your dinner is well out of the way of most predators. The only ones who could possibly claim it would be lionesses, but even they think twice.

 

A DETERMINED MOTHER (by James Suter)
Pictured right is our resident female leopard with a Sharpe’s grysbok kill making her way back to her cubs. As these cubs are still relatively young they are hidden the majority of the time. They are very lucky to have a mother who is as efficient and successful when it comes to the art of hunting.  The cubs are now feeding and need high concentrations of protein in order for rapid growth.  As she hides these cubs while she’s out hunting, we have noticed she focuses her energy on catching smaller prey along the Lebombo ridge. This tactic is a clever one as she can bring back food to the cubs with relative ease and does not put them at risk by escorting them across dangerous ground to a larger kill she has made.

We estimate these cubs at around four months old, one female and one male with an abundance of energy, its exhausting just watching them.  We have introduced them to the vehicles and already they are very relaxed with our presence.  With a bit of luck and motherly love they can make it through their first hazardous year and will provide us with many more memorable sightings.

A PROUD FATHER…

This stunning male leopard is the same one who has been filling the pages of all the previous journals, and also the proud father of the two little leopard cubs. He is an impressive male. He is still young by leopard terms, perhaps seven years of age. He has a huge territory and is yet to reach his peak condition. Every time we see him it seems he is getting bigger and bigger. He has been moving around a lot, especially along his borders. This might be in attempt to keep outsiders at bay with the arrival of the cubs. He will be very aware of them although he does not directly help to rear the. His presence in the area is exactly what they need though as this affords them protection and gives them the time to grow strong before leaving to find their own land. If another rival male does manage to penetrate his territory and comes across the cubs they will almost certainly be killed, a sad reality of life in Africa. Let’s hope he does his job well and see’s his cubs through to maturity.

 

THE ELEPHANT HUNTERS…DAWN OF A NEW ERA

A blood chilling scream echo’s across the grassland. The wind has shifted and carried the scent of death straight to an elephant and her young six-year old calf. The calf is anxious and screams repeatedly, seeking re-assurance from his mother. Then there is silence. They listen intently but there is nothing but the smell, the smell that sends fear in to even the bravest. In the shadows something terrible is watching the two panicked elephants. It is a male lion, and he is not alone. Close by another four have their eyes focused on the little calf. As if linked by some telepathic communication system the five make their move. Usually they will stalk and use elements to the favor but not this time.

The mission is clear and they are out to kill. By the time the elephant calf got sight of the first male lion it was too late. As a unit two leaped on to the back of the calf sinking their massive teeth in to the rough hide of the screaming calf. The mother is too panicked to think straight as she runs away panicked and fearing for her life. Now the calf was alone. A third lion leaped on to the back of the calf causing his knees to buckle. He has to stay on his feet. He must not fall down. He musters all of the strength that he has and starts to run after his mother. Imagine the feelings that this very complex and emotional animal must have been experiencing. He was alone separated from his mother, the only company he has are the five cats intending to have him for dinner. He runs free of the three on his back and scrambles after his mother. Just as he thought he made a get away something hit him so hard from the side that it took the air out of his heaving lungs and sent him crashing to the solid earth.

 

One of the big male had tackled the calf from the side as an effort to stop him, and within seconds the calf was covered in 1700 pounds of teeth and claws. He did not stand a chance. It was over. For a minute he could feel as the lions attempted to rip through his thick hide, and then it all went numb. Shock set in and he was losing blood. It was simply a matter of time before the last bit of life drained from his bloodied body. He then breathed his last.

This may seem cruel to us and the way we perceive and understand life. We are happy in our cozy little homes and the way we live. Out here in Africa it is a very different story. The rule is steadfast…the weak will die, the strong will survive. What is even more alarming is that this event is way out of the norm for lions. Attacking elephants is so dangerous that very few lions will have the courage to attempt it. It would almost certainly cost them their lives. Then what have these lions done? Was it simply a case of curiosity turned deadly? Were they opportunistic, realizing that they were not under the protection of a large herd? Did the five lions cross a line where few others have dared to go…is this the dawn of a new era?

The elephant hunters…

 

Return of the Xirombi Pride
This pride of lions has been out of the concession for a long time. We were not sure what came of them and though they might have moved so far south that we would not see them again. Luckily for us they made a brief appearance a earlier this month, and then a few days later we discovered three lionesses with two tiny cubs on a zebra kill. Imagine our surprise and excitement levels. The Xirombi pride is back!!
They are fewer in number though. The last time we had the whole pride together they numbered seven, including one young male lion. They are now down to three adult lionesses with no sign of the young male. The great news is that they have joined up with the coalition of five male lions from the south, and they have the two little additions for the pride. We also suspect that there s another lioness south of the lodge hiding some more cubs. This would be amazing. One can safely say that the pride is now up to ten lions with more on the way. Lion prides go though these changes from time to time. It is very healthy as changes bring about fresh blood and avoids inbreeding. We are now looking forward to seeing the pride together more often. The have already killed three buffalo’s on two separate occasions in the last two weeks, but more of that in the next journal.

 

Snake Attack
 
I witnessed one of the most incredible sights recently. A four meter long Southern African Python managed to catch a water monitor. I managed to crawl within two meter of this huge snake without disturbing it. These lizards are big and strong but it proved to be no match for the large python. He subdued the lizard by coiling around it and squeezed every bit of life out of it. The lizard never really stood a chance against this super predator. First of all the snake is huge. They do not get much bigger than four meters in Southern Africa but could reach six meter in other parts of the continent. In other words it had size and weight in its advantage. Pythons have strong recurved teeth that latch on to prey. In addition they have four rows of teeth on the top jaw instead of the standard two, making getaway impossible. The snake would have been invisible to the lizard as its camouflage allows it to blend in perfectly within its surrounds. All these aspects would have helped the python in capturing its food. They also have the ability to swallow prey seemingly to big for them, including prey up to the size of young impala or bushbuck. This meal will last this snake a very long time. Interesting though, had I disturbed the snake and it felt threatened it would instinctively regurgitate its food in an attempt to make itself lighter and be able to escape.
Pictured above the last of the lizard disappears down the gullet of the python. Notice how the jaw of the python almost “dislocates” in the process of swallowing this large meal.

Pictured below is a Rufous Beaked Snake. This is not a commonly seen snake although rather active during the day time. It is a slow moving diurnal snake and spends much of its day in rodent burrows and termite mounds looking for prey. The “beaked” mouth parts aids to some extent in burrowing. They are not very aggressive and seldom even attempt to bite. It is a very strong snake though and I had a hard time holding on to it. Had it bit me nothing would of come of it as they are only mildly venomous and of no threat to man.

 

Grey giants in gigantic numbers.

A trip to Africa is not complete unless you see these grey giants. We have been very fortunate to have massive herds of elephants freely move in and through the concession. It leaves you breathless when eighty elephants walk past you vehicle with large female staring at you with heads help high and those menacing tusks facing toward you. Watching babies play and frolic in the water is just as unforgettable. They are always up to something, be it playing with one another or trying to chase an approaching wildebeest.

We have also had incredible rhino sightings this month. Groups or “crashes” of rhino numbering ten or more are not uncommon in the region. They are not usually herd animals but will socialize together, especially at a common source such as food or water. Sub-adults will also accompany one another for some time before becoming more solitary.

What a sight to see these little ones play and tumble in the mud. They are not shy to get down and dirty. Just look at the two cuddles together bottom right. You would be excused for wanting to simply join them and cuddle. The young male are as always full of bravado and wont hesitate to give you a piece of their mind.
 
Buffalo have been a little hard to find earlier in the month, but they have been visiting frequently in the last week. They depend on large water bodies because of the massive size of the herds.
Just have a look at how big a hippo can open its mouth. As if that is not impressive enough have a look at those teeth and the size of them. The hardest thing to believe is that they are strictly vegetarian. Most of the times that hippos yawn signals a threat display usually aimed at another hippo.

 

MAGNIFICENT GENERAL GAME VIEWING

A group of four rhino enjoy the late afternoon sun amidst a herd of impala. A spotted hyena yawns before heading out to hunt. Impala feed whilst the sun fights its way though early morning mist. Young waterbuck stare at us curiously and a group of young giraffe enjoy each others company.

BEAUTIFUL WINTER BIRDING
A Goliath Heron takes flight over the Nwanetsi River. It is a large bird, in fact the largest heron in the world. To the left a lilac-breasted roller take to the sky vertically. It was caught just as those beautiful tail streamers aid in gaining lift. This is by far one of the most stunning and striking birds that we have here, and this pictures gives you an idea of how gorgeous those colors are. Pictured to the right is a Verreaux’s Eagle Owl with an interesting kill. During the night it caught a genet, a small cat-like nocturnal animal. These owls are very large and more than capable of killing large prey as you can clearly see. This is one of he more unusual sighting I have witnessed.

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Kruger National Park, South Africa

Singita Kruger National Park
Singita Lebombo & Sweni
Articles by Marlon du Toit and James Suter
All photographs shot on location by Marlon du Toit and James Suter

30 June 2010