September 2010 : Grumeti Reserves, Tanzania

BEFORE THE STORM

The “small” wet season has started and after the fires that swept across the Serengeti and Grumeti Reserves last month the transformation has been amazing, the black cotton soils that crack when dry have swollen again and closed up, animals that moved onto the burnt sections in search of minerals now move into the same areas to feed on the lush new growth. For a few days after the first rainfall there were very few wildebeest to be seen, within a week that started changing and now there are thousands of them on the plains, accompanied by large herds of zebra, topi, tommies and giraffe. These in turn attracted the predators and over the past two weeks we have seen two prides of nine lion – The Butamtam and Colobus Prides - as well as the Sabora Pride which is made up of fifteen animals.

There were also two lionesses with three cubs seen along the Grumeti River and four large male lions. There have been a number of leopard and cheetah sightings, a clan of fifteen hyena and many more sightings of two or three hyena. These were often seen during the course of the day laying in pools of water by the side of the road or in small water pans. Colour has been added to the landscape with the dramatic sunrises and sunsets, by the build up of heavy clouds creating dark backdrops to the plains. Wild flowers and trees blossomed and added their touch which in turn attracted birds and insects.

The first rainfall came through in the late afternoon on 6th September, it had been building for a few days and every living thing in the Grumeti Reserves looked forward to its arrival. The dust and soot that had been hanging in the air and coating all the trees was washed away and within four days we saw the black turning green. Water holes and pans filled up and the Grumeti River flowed again, as did all of the other rivers and drainage lines on the reserve. The changes brought about by the rain are evident everywhere you look, the golden plains that stretch forever are underlined with new green growth, bare trees are filled with leaves and the undergrowth along the rivers has thickened up tremendously.

Like many of the antelope species the female Topi (Damaliscus lunatus topi) tends to leave the herd to calve, sometimes she will even leave the herd’s home range for this, only returning weeks later. The calves are sandy coloured and will lie up for a few days before joining their mother. Once they are a few weeks old they will often form small congregations or “nurseries” with the females watching over them. I was fortunate enough to watch a Topi giving birth and within fifteen minutes of being born the calf was up on it’s feet and followed it’s mother as she lead it away from me.

The young of all species are particularly vulnerable and, because many of them are so small, they have more predators to contend with than when grown. The birds of prey, jackal, genet, large snakes and the smaller wild cats take advantage of them; the larger predators like lion, leopard, cheetah and hyena take their share as well, finding the calves and lambs far easier to take down than an adult. Despite this there is good recruitment and the herds are sustained, experienced adults and survival evolution keep the balance.

This time of year at the Grumeti Reserve is an excellent opportunity to observe a wide variety of flora and fauna, large herds gather to take advantage of the new growth, and on the areas that were burnt they have the added advantage of wide open spaces that offer little cover for predators. The wildebeest returning from the migration file across the plains in long columns, their impact is reduced and as a result other animals that normally give way to their vast numbers remain.

A COMMON SIGHT ON THE PLAINS
Every day for the past two weeks we have seen these ranks filing past, one minute there is nothing to be seen and the next there are thousands of wildebeest.  A rough estimate is that there are at least three hundred thousand wildebeest on the property at any given time as they head back south over this time. On the 26th September a large herd of giraffe gathered.  Guests had been watching a herd of cows and their calves when, in the distance, they saw some giraffe bulls heading towards them. They waited to watch the coming together and saw still more coming over.  Before long there was a herd of 72, marching across the plain, stopping every now and then to watch the watchers. Thank you to Ignacio and Fara San Miguel for the photographs of this amazing sighting!

There are times when one can be sitting watching a herd of zebra or some other species when a column of wildebeest turn up, pausing in their journey to feed alongside the other grazers.  There is mutual benefit gained by this in that it increases the number of “eyes” on the lookout for predators.

There is continuos interaction amongst the zebra stallions as they challenge one another. Guests were able to watch as the Butamtam Pride attempted to hunt a sub adult buffalo close to Sasakwa Dam. The pride had been lying up as a herd of buffalo started to make their way towards the water. Some of the pride members slunk off to lay ambush to the approaching animals.  Also approaching were 3 old buffalo bulls that were slightly ahead of the herd.  These 3 upset the plans of the pride and it wasn’t long before the lion were the ones in trouble. The 3 buffalo bulls drove the lion away from the young buffalo and sent them scurrying for nearby trees. 

With the herd of approximately 60 buffalo now joining in the chase, some very undignified and humiliated lion sat in the trees watching as the buffalo milled about below them. The lion start the hunt and chase after the young bull. Unable to keep up with the older bulls the lion start closing in as the youngster lags behind. The tables are turned and the 3 bulls, joined by other buffalo from the herd, charge at the lion, chasing them off. The lion head for the nearest tree. Perched in a tree a lion looks down as the buffalo finally start to move off. A lioness watches us over the heads of her pride. A small herd of zebra watch as members of the Colobus Pride walk by.

A lioness from the Butamtam Pride watches 3 buffalo bulls.  She and her sister had just finished eating a sub adult buffalo in the long grass, whilst these bulls had watched. Afterwards the two of them casually stood up and sauntered by as they headed off to rejoin the rest of their pride.

These two lionesses had been lying up next to the Grumeti River when they noticed two impala rams heading towards them.  They immediately flattened themselves and tried to disappear from sight.  Unfortunately for them the wind was blowing from them towards the impala and this ram picked up their scent. He watched them briefly and then walked off.  After the two impala had started walking away the lionesses raised their heads and watched them briefly before laying down again. Adding brightness to it all are the birds, flowers and insects.

COTTON STAINERS – Dysdercus nigrofasciatus

Members of the Family Pyrrhocoridae, medium sized insects (5-20mm). The Cotton Stainers are large, up to 17mm but variable in size, elongate with a reddish head and legs and a white band around the neck. The males are smaller than the females and mating couples may be seen walking around tail to tail. The nymphs are red. The nymphs are gregarious and are often found feeding together with adults on seeds of Malvaceae and related families and on crops such as cotton and okra. They are considered a serious pest of cotton and can have severe economic consequences because of the damage they do to seeds and transmission of a fungus that stains the cotton yellow or brown. The photo shows nymphs feeding on the fruit of Pappea capensis – jacket plum tree.  Note the black wing pads starting to develop on one of the individuals.

The Little Bee-eater (Merops pusillus) are a common species and very widespread over the sub-continent.  They can often be spotted perched close to the road and usually fairly low to the ground, from where they keep a look out for insects.  When an insect is spotted they will fly out to catch it and then very often return to the same perch.

There are fields of White Ink Flower (Cycnium tubulosum subsp. tubulosum), patches of Pink Ink Flower (Cycnium tubulosum subsp montuosum), Crotalaria’s, Ground Lilies and many more. Traditionally the White Ink Flower has been used as a remedy for snakebite and an extraction from the Pink Ink Flower is used as an emetic love charm.  Fibres from the stems of most of the Crotalarias are used to weave baskets with and many of the known 200 species that occur in Africa are known to be poisonous.