June 2010 : Grumeti Reserves, Tanzania

June at Singita Grumeti Reserves is all about the arrival of the vast herds of migrating wildebeest.

Approximately one and a half million White - bearded gnu (Connochaettus tauris albojubatus), along with a million other ungulates migrate annually in and around the Serengeti – Mara Ecosystem, many passing through Grumeti and Ikorongo Game Reserves through late May, and this year, all of June. Driven by the constant need for grass and water, the sight of these incredible herds is a natural phenomenon difficult to capture on camera, and one that we are very privileged to be a part of every year.

The broad muzzle, wide incisor row, and loose lips allow for rapid bulk feeding on short grasses. The migration permits the gnus to rotate pastures where these requirements are seasonal. They need to drink daily, and the perception of a distant thunderstorm may stimulate migratory wildebeest to long distances in search of rewarding new green flushing grasses. A wildebeest will easily walk ten to fifteen kilometers to water. What better way to witness the extent of the large herds than from the varying heights of a hot air balloon. Many guests take advantage of this opportunity over our concession and feedback is always wonderful from spellbound participants.

The balloon path is dictated by wind direction. We are fortunate each morning to have a constant breeze coming from the east, and will soon start launching just after the sun rises. The sun heats the earth and creates a gentle, but steady breeze perfect for the approximate hour long journey. The pilot skillfully utilizes the inversion layers and steers the balloon at different heights over the plains in a westerly direction, often flying over Sasakwa Lake and then landing in the vicinity of Singita Sabora Tented Camp. The lake provides phenomenal viewing throughout the migration, with a constant flurry of activity in and out of the water.

SABORA DURING THE MIGRATION

Another participant of the great migration enjoying time at Sabora. Who better to share the migration with other than the “Guru of the Gnu” himself, Dr Richard D Estes out in the field having a laugh on a training excursion with a few of the SGR guides and his beloved wildebeest. Wildebeest charging off into the sunset make for interesting photographic opportunities. As do vultures roosting at night after long days of feeding activity, mostly on natural wildebeest mortalities within the huge herds.

One would normally associate mass predator activity with the migration, but what we have found that over the last few years all the big cats and hyaena remain completely satiated, are very immobile and lie up in the shade of trees and bushes for most part of the day and into the night. We have witnessed our two male cheetah siblings hunt and kill young wildebeest on several occasions during the month – seen here on the hunt looking out onto the plains from the elevated position of a fallen over tree.

The two males later moved into the herds and we watched in fascination as they crouched low in the grasses, ears back, posture perfectly aligned with the available cover so as not to be seen. We watched for a few hours until an early guest flight departure pulled us away. We returned later in the afternoon to find two very full cheetahs lying up under the shade of a Balanites tree, the remains of a young wildebeest not far away. 

Many of our guests requested a visit to the Grumeti River, more specifically just inside the Serengeti National Park where one can view a selection of some of the world’s largest Nile crocodiles and huge pods of hippo. Although the river was relatively low, some were lucky enough to see droves of wildebeest ploughing through the water at definite crossing points, constantly on the lookout for crocodiles. The hippos can be seen in huge numbers sprawled on the banks sunning themselves, the scenery along the river an interesting contrast to the open plains.
Elephant sightings were as numerous as always, and activity was particularly good at all the water points. This young calf put on a great show for us a little way from the waterhole. With the rumble of dominant male wildebeest calling all around, Adas was able to witness a very rare and special sighting.  He came across a female hyaena lying at the entrance of what appeared to be a den site. On closer inspection the hyaena appeared to have recently given birth and was visibly distressed. Adas could only see one cub, weighing about one and half kilograms, born with eyes wide open, but blind. Siblings are normally in a race for dominance, but there was uncertainty in this instance of how many youngsters had been born.

She briefly moved the single cub out into the open and under the shade of a tree. After about ten days the mother will normally carry the cubs to a communal den and introduce them to other older cubs. They are extremely inquisitive and will wonder among the network of tunnels at a den site. Cubs will eat meat at approximately two and a half months old and are weaned at about a year of age, apparently a traumatic experience for the youngsters and they show their dissatisfaction by continuously circling their mothers making whining sounds with teeth exposed. They may move with a clan at about a year, but will only hunt effectively at about a year and a half.

Zebra form a large and spectacularly colourful part of the great migration and herds are interspersed among the numerous wildebeest. Two of Africa’s most spectacular birds are such a part of the great migration, the Stocky Cowl Headed and Short Tailed Bataleur eagle. Their flight is direct, sailing with a few flaps in between and in the tilting action of a tight rope walker, mostly seen at relatively low levels in search of carcasses. The Lilac Breasted Roller has a feast catching grasshoppers and other insects whilst the many thousands of wildebeest hooves churn through the grasslands.

As the plains begin to dry, a combination of dust and smoke from distant fires make for the most incredible sunsets. We are privileged indeed.