July 2009 : Grumeti Reserves, Tanzania

THE GREAT MIGRATION

July is always a fantastic month here with the great migration in full swing. The bulk of the wildebeest masses have begun to leave for greener pastures but there were still very large herds on our concession. The herds are slowly heading northeast to their next destination, the northern Serengeti National Park and Maasai Mara National Reserve. Typically they trudge along, head to tail, depressingly holding their heads low. Every now and again breaking into a loping run. In their wake they leave the grass flattened and grazed short, giving the much quieter Thomson’s gazelles and other antelope the space to enjoy the nourishment of the shorter nutritious grass shoots. With the departure of tens of thousands of grunting wildebeest the plains seem quiet and empty.

Not for long though as the zebra, Thommies, eland and topi move in, replacing the mono-culture of wildebeest with a mosaic of different species. The large herds of wildebeest, lacking a leader and any form of definite plan, often get caught up in scenes that resemble crowd hooliganism. Down on the dry Grumeti River we were treated to a fantastic sighting.  One morning, when the herds were running in and out of the riverbed an opportunistic lone lioness grabbed a calf and began to strangle it, then miraculously let it go! Not sure why though as she could have easily overpowered the calf.

The herds of zebra drinking at the Sasakwa dam have also provided some sensational viewing, feeding both the crocodiles and the Butamtam pride of lions.

THE CHEETAH MOTHER AND YOUNGSTER

The cheetah sightings have been fantastic all month. On one day no fewer than 15 of the world’s fastest land animal were spotted on the concession.  One particular morning Nick Bester and his guests were treated to a once in a lifetime sighting. Nick took some amazing pictures, he recounts the events:

‘With the Tommie’s come the cheetah! One particular morning was memorable. Whist sipping our tea on the Sabora deck, two cheetahs came into view. They had a drink at the waterhole, and suddenly took interest in an inattentive Tommie. After a short stalk both predators streaked after the gazelle bringing it down in a cloud of dust. We raced to the Land Rover and drove out onto the plain right in front of camp. A large hyena had obviously also been watching the proceedings. She beat us to the kill and stole the prey from right under the cheetahs. The mother and sub adult cheetah had not even had time to take a bite from Mr. Thompson’s rump! They seemed undeterred and walked away, a quick glance every now and again over their shoulders.

The two hunters didn’t have to walk far before coming across new prey in a freshly burnt area. A short chase ensued and a gazelle was apprehended in another cloud of dust and ash. The Serengeti is a place of plenty and even having lost a meal an hour earlier the cheetahs didn’t feel compelled to wolf down their prey. Instead the mother allowed her offspring to hone his hunting skills by practicing on the young antelope. The young Tommie was repeatedly allowed to ‘escape’ before being effortlessly hauled in and tripped up with an accurate clip to the hind legs. Repeatedly the gazelle leapt up and gave a few swift bounds before it was ankle tapped again. The gazelle was never allowed to give up! Every time it looked like it was done, there was persistent tapping and prodding to get it moving again so the game could continue.The mother also joined in the fun and stole a few turns. The whole process lasted for about half an hour. Throughout the ordeal not a drop of blood was shed, a small consolation for the gazelle.

Finally the mother ended the educational exercise and a killing bite was administered to the throat. The two cheetahs had worked up an appetite and the gazelle was devoured.’

ACTION AT SASAKWA DAM

As the plains dry out and water becomes scarce, Sasakwa dam becomes a hotbed of activity at this time of year. The Butamtam pride spent days on end ambushing animals at the dam, sometimes killing several times a day. At times, the lions eat only a fraction of a carcass and abandon the rest to the vultures, jackals and hyenas.

They seemed to be enticed only once during the month for a change to pork! A warthog piglet was caught and consumed. Soon afterwards the pride sauntered back to into the grass and flopped down onto a completely untouched dead wildebeest. The resident hippo bull always provides alternative entertainment. If he is not chasing the crocodiles he picks on the lions.  He alternates between intimidating all and sundry with his impressive dental arrangement and his rather comical rolling display.

LIONS ON HONEYMOON

Love was in the air down at Faru Faru, with mating lions making this romantic river lodge their home for about 5 days. The frequent copulations and night time serenades meant that you seldom felt too far from the action while staying at Faru. The two male lions, more than likely brothers, are just coming into their prime. We estimate them to be in the region of 5 to 6 years old. With two lionesses both in estrus they both had their hands full! The new males, still learning the ropes, were at the mercy of the lionesses, who certainly run the show! At least one of the males was a little weary of the Land Rovers invading his privacy; he seemed almost embarrassed by the whole thing! The males had to think quickly, dismounts were no time to dilly-dally. We will be waiting expectantly; cubs will be due usually in a little over in about 3 months time.

WILDLIFE MINIATURES - SAFARIS ANTS

To conclude this month we downscale things and take a look at nature through a macro- lens. In East Africa, the Safari Ants are known by their Swahili name “siafu”. The Dorylus ants are always very impressive in their huge colonies numbering up to 20 million individuals. They are often seen at this time of the year as the savanna dries out, sometimes in columns that are hundreds of meters long.

On more than one occasion we have discovered carcasses covered in siafu. The army of ants devouring the meat with the bigger predators forced to sit by and watch from a distance. Upon closer inspection the columns are seen guarded by the ferocious soldiers, heads held defiantly skywards, jaws agape.The diet is entirely carnivorous and consists mainly of adult and larval insects, and any other immobile or unhealthy animal that cannot escape their slow but continuous advance. The colonies are nomadic as their daily food daily requirements render it impossible to be based in one place for too long. They utilize temporary sub-terranian nests. The columns observed crossing roads are usually the colonies moving nests.

Text and pictures by Nick Bester and Lee Fuller Singita Grumeti Reserves Serengeti, Tanzania 31 July 2009