August 2010 : Grumeti Reserves, Tanzania

This was a scene so typical in August at Singita Grumeti Reserves, wildebeest herds ranging from hundreds to a few thousand trudging slowly across the plains in search of new pastures and water.  Our concession has many quality water points in the drainage lines that are able to provide water for resident wildlife for extended periods, but many have dried, and we’re still anxiously waiting for the spring rains. August at Singita Grumeti Reserves belongs to the vast herds of zebra that grace our plains in search of new fresh growth after the normal monthly rains. This year the landscape changed overnight as bush fires raged through the dry plains, creating many dramatic photographic scenes.

Twisters or whirlwinds created by thermal activity from the fire race across the plains, often carrying burning material from one area to another. Fire management will always be one of the most controversial topics in conservation, but in this case having not started the fires, we did all in our power to put out the blaze, putting in back- burns to secure untouched blocks. These amazing shots from Singita Sabora Tented Camp were captured by one of our guests at approximately 8pm that evening,  a view to be remembered…

The following morning’s contrast was a sight to behold, smoke from the previous evening still lingering in the air and dense dead trees that will smolder for weeks. Hundreds of zebra and Thomson gazelle flocked onto the burnt plains ingesting new minerals after the fire. Zebra and wildebeest flocked to Sasakwa Lake in their thousands, joined each day by herds of giraffe, elephant and a whole host of other species. Always very conscience of the presence of the resident crocodiles,  they would drink quickly and rush out of the water in a flash at the slightest hint of danger.

Four members of the Butamtam pride decided to base themselves at the lake for a few days, harassing both big and small. Initially stopping a giraffe from drinking and then showing his inquisitive and often playful nature with a Water monitor. The standoff was short lived as they both lost interest and continued their daily activities.

Water monitors can be defensive, using their tail, claws, and jaws when fighting. They are excellent swimmers, using the raised fin located on their tails to steer through water. Water monitors are carnivores, and have a wide range of foods. They are known to eat fish, frogs, rodents, birds, crabs, and snakes. They have also been known to eat turtles, as well as young crocodile and crocodile eggs. Like the Komodo dragon, they will often eat carrion.

Breeding herds of elephant were seen almost daily at the lake, and the resident hippo seemed oblivious as usual to it all. Game viewers were often parked at the lake for hours as various animals came to drink.

Lion show dominance in so many ways and it was evident here one morning as they moved constantly, for about two hours, chasing every animal away from the water. Ideally located in the heart of the Serengeti / Mara Eco system, Singita Grumeti Reserves offers guests the opportunity to not only enjoy the escalating resident wildlife activity on the concession, but also to follow the path of the great wildebeest migration throughout the year. Rainfall and forage dictate the movement of the masses, leading them northward to Northern Serengeti in the latter half of the year. One of our guides enjoyed a day trip with his guests to Kogatende and the Mara River, scene to so many wonderful captions of wildebeest crossings.

Giant Nile crocodiles lie in readiness as the herds gather on the banks before making the plunge into the river. Pete and his guests waited patiently for many hours for the crocodiles to pounce, but alas promised to return next year to witness of nature’s greatest wildlife shows. Having made it to the other side, the exhausted herds move up onto the plateau in search of good grazing.

Back to the concession at Singita Grumeti Reserves, ballooning across the plains once again proved a very popular guest activity. The wildlife is fascinating from the air -  some lucky guests saw all three of the big cats, lion, leopard and cheetah, in one hour from the balloon. At this time of the year the fresh morning Westerly gently carries the balloon across the lake in full view of Singita Sasakwa Lodge, and down onto the Sabora Plains.

As mentioned earlier, zebra have dominated the plains in August, but so have cheetah. Guests were very privileged to witness several successful hunts by the two resident males and several females. A very special thanks to one of our guests, Arjuna Jain,  for his phenomenal shots of a female cheetah chase and kill an adult Thomson gazelle right in front of the game viewer.

She appeared anxious all morning and we anticipated a hunt. At this stage she had seen the Thomson’s gazelles in the distance and was waiting for the right moment. Predators are extremely patient and often delay stalking for reasons unbeknown to us. In this case, everything went according to plan.

The gazelle turned and ran straight for our game viewer and the cheetah knocked the back legs out from under her. The struggle almost over, the cheetah moved up toward the jugular and used her superior weight to force down the helpless gazelle. With the hunt officially over, she moved to a nearby tree and was able to feed at her own leisure.

Despite the burn, life at Singita Grumeti Reserves continued as normal, the areas not affected hosting high concentrations of game. Herds of elephant continued to browse on the fringes of the wooded areas.

eagle bursts into full flight. Gaining full plumage at five to six years, this eagle is one of Africa’s largest,  hunting over the plains and occasionally drifting into wooded areas.

The annual game count took place in August and we look forward to the final totals. On the last day some of us were asked to assist with the Colobus count along the Grumeti River, astonishingly enough we reached well over two hundred individuals, which is just remarkable for this species. With animals flocking down to the river in search of water we managed to get close to a few other species - ably assisted by Elephants digging for fresh pools. Fantastic Wildebeest herds still up in the Ikorongo Game Reserve, and a pride of eight lion feasting on a fresh zebra carcass.

Lee Bennett came across this huge African Rock Python early one morning which he estimated to be approximately four meters in length.  The snake was in the process of digesting a huge carcass, the speed of digestion is difficult to guage, but the carcass was about fifty centremeters from the snakes head. Interestingly though, Lee had passed the exact same bush the afternoon before and the snake was not there, so the carcass could only have been around for a maximum of 15 hours.

The Lilac breasted Roller features in so many journals, but it is very challenging to leave them out, and below a little immature malachite Kingfisher gets ready for the plunge.

It’s seriously hot down on the Sabora plains; I think a great end to the journal for our biggest visitor to Singita Grumeti Reserves in August, totally comfortable both under canvass and on the court. Until September, let’s all pray for rain.